ZARA关店、Forever21败走 淘宝、抖音直播带货兴起 快时尚玩法变了?

2019-10-12 投稿人 : www.mcxj.net 围观 : 956 次
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Fast fashion, which originated in Europe in the 20th century, is called "Fast Fashion", while the United States calls it "Speed to Maket".

Fast fashion brand's three core characteristics: fast delivery time, price close to the people and keep up with the trend, which stimulate consumers'desire to buy. Its representatives are H& M, ZARA, UNIQLO Uniqlo, MJstyle, MUJI Printed Products, NEW LOOK, UR, C& A, GAP and other brands.

However, recent reports related to fast fashion are related to "closing down" and declining performance.

Forever21's application for bankruptcy protection is a typical case recently. A series of preludes, such as discount, clearance and closure, make this ending not unexpected.

Fast fashion brand ZARA recently closed two stores in Beijing's core business circle, namely, Dongzhimen Laifushi Shop and Wangfujing New Dongan Shop.

Even the "Chinese version of ZARA" and Rachabel, the first A + H-share listed apparel company in China, also exploded this summer.

What happened in the fast fashion industry?

Forever 21 loses China

Forever 21 is the most popular popular American popular fashion brand among teenagers. It has a sweet line, simple and lightweight design style and bright color.

In May 2019, the news of Forever 21's withdrawal from China appeared on the microblog hotspot.

Seven years ago, in the summer of 2012, a new Forever21 store with a total of nearly 2,500 square metres was opened on the upper and lower floors of Wangfujing Commercial Street in Beijing. The crowds surged and young customers queued up to enter the store.

But the grand opening ceremony did not bring long-term good business to Forever 21.

In recent years, business has not improved, Forever 21 closed more than 200 stores in three years. Since 2016, it has gradually withdrawn from the markets of many European countries. The withdrawal of the Chinese market began in March 2019, and stores in Tianjin, Hangzhou, Chongqing and Taipei closed one after another. Beijing Wangfujing Street, the first store to enter China for the first time, also opened five years after the curtain was hastily closed.

What is more difficult to understand is that its flagship store on the platform of Jingdong and Tianmao has also issued a notice of closure.

Over the past 10 years, Forever21 has been grabbing the market by expanding rapidly around the world. At its peak, Forever21 has more than 800 stores in nearly 50 countries and regions around the world.

But under the impact of high rental costs and e-commerce, Forever21 lost $400 million in 2017.

Forever 21's defeat of China is just a microcosm of the current predicament of Fast Fashion.

Fast fashion is becoming more and more difficult to play in the Chinese market?

As the first fast fashion brand to enter China, ZARA closed its biggest flagship store in Chengdu in 2017, which is regarded as a watershed for fast fashion brands.

Inditex, Zara's parent company, which has dominated the industry for a long time, has slowed down its performance growth since the second half of 2016. In fiscal year 2018, sales of the group slowed to 26.1 billion, an increase of 3%, net profit increased by 12%, the worst profit growth in nearly five years.

Equally difficult is H& M.

H& M used to open a new store in four days, but profit margins dropped from 18% to 12.8% between 2012 and 2016, and the iconic Beijing Xidan Dayuecheng store was closed.

2018年第三季度,H&M库存近390亿瑞典克朗(约合275亿人民币),占总销售额的33.5%,超过了服装企业健康库存率30%的警戒线。H&M不得不将天梦库存火上浇油,导致公司当年利润下降41%。

gap进入中国市场一度火爆,但gap集团2019财年第一季度业绩不如预期,营收同比下降4%。

即使是中国发展最快的优衣库也放慢了脚步。自去年12月以来,优衣库一直没有开设任何新店。

经过全球赛马圈的快速扩张,快时尚市场已经高度饱和,性能跳水和生存困难。这些“速度后遗症”表明,过去的美好时光似乎已经一去不复返了。

中国Zara的“黑暗时代”

被称为“中国版Zara”的拉查贝尔(Lachabel)是中国首家A+H股上市服装公司,今年夏天爆炸式增长。2019年8月6日,瑞嘉贝尔大股东股权质押“破灭”,瑞嘉贝尔的中间价跌至4.96元,创历史最低。

2017年11月和12月,因个人财务需要,控制人邢嘉兴分别向海通证券质押3500万股和4000万股。当时,瑞嘉贝尔才在两个月前上市,市值100亿元,但现在只剩下30.56亿元。

如瑞嘉贝尔招股说明书所述,本次IPO募集的资金将用于拓展零售网络和建设新的零售信息系统。未来三年,将新增门店3000家,到2020年将突破1万家。

2017年,瑞嘉贝尔门店数量达到9448家的峰值,这一目标即将实现。

但是,激进的扩张策略不仅占用了La Chapelle大量资金,而且导致库存积压,这直接影响了公司的销量和定价计划,并增加了公司库存折旧准备金和流动资金占用的风险。

自今年年初以来,拉夏贝尔(La Chapelle)经历了流动性危机,“封闭商店潮”已开始出现。

在2019年上半年,La Chapelle的净利润急剧下降。收入为39.51亿元人民币,下降9.78%,亏损为5.71亿元人民币。

根据半年度报告,截至2019年6月底,La Chapelle的零售店数量达到6799个,比2018年12月底的9269个零售店数量减少26.65%。在报告期内,关闭了2470个零售店。

数据显示,公司销售毛利同比减少11.15亿元。 La Chapelle主要采用直销模式。该公司表示,该商店上半年大量关闭,主要是为了关闭效率低下的商店。

中国独特的快速时尚模式已经形成

当“快速时尚”出现时,大多数观众分别是70和80。十多年过去了。 90年代和00年代之后的世代是完全不同的世代。他们更注重产品和体验本身,而不是品牌效应,并希望获得独特的体验和创新产品。

业内人士认为,在快速时尚的主要布局如北上广深和深圳等一线城市中,快速时尚无法跟上用户消费升级的步伐,放慢了渠道发展并失去了市场机会。

由于快时尚品牌主要是自营店,因此店面租金和人工成本的压力比较大,给品牌带来沉重负担,产品价格竞争力也越来越不明显。

随着淘宝购物平台和视频购物平台在中国的兴起,电子商务平台的商家往往更加关注消费者需求,及时响应消费者诉求,设计较短的上架时间,更新更多的产品,不断给消费者带来新鲜感,比快时尚品牌更脚踏实地。快不坏。

与中国高度电子化的消费趋势相反,快时尚过于关注线下商店,长期的线上空缺很快被成千上万的在线零售商填补。

紧跟时尚产品设计展示代工厂生产的潮流,形成了具有中国特色的快速时尚模式。

尼尔森在《2018年中国家庭精明消费报告》中指出,一二线城市倾向于理性消费,而三、四、五线城市开始享受消费升级。由于智能手机的普及和业务的快速发展,三四线城市的消费习惯越来越接近一、二线城市。

欧洲的快速时尚巨头可能直到很晚才意识到电子商务的威胁。快时尚品牌不得不放手,努力适应中国市场。H&M去年开设了天茂旗舰店,以获得更多的在线流量。

(责任编辑:李嘉玲)